the B. spot

“Sulfate-free” shampoo- what does that mean to you?  Does it mean that the shampoo will be milder? Less irritating? More moisturizing?  Does it mean that your color will last longer and that your hair will not fall out? There is a lot of bad press about sulfates out there and companies who tout having sulfate-free shampoos are really feeding on the fears of consumers.  It’s a classic case of information in the wrong hands being twisted then spread like a wild fire. How did sulfates get such a bad wrap?

The truth is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) can cause some irritation if left on the skin for extended periods of time. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has studied the data and deemed SLS safe for rinse off products; this means that shampoos and body washes that contain SLS are safe.  Marketing professionals jumped on the opportunity to separate their brand from others and began requesting “sulfate-free” shampoos from their R&D groups.  Just an aside- I am blaming marketing professionals because I would hate to think that my fellow Cosmetic Chemists had anything to this (don’t take it personal)!

Let me say this, yes sulfates will strip your hair of oil (and dirt too), that is what cleansing surfactants (also called detergents) do.  All detergents will strip your hair of oil otherwise it is not a detergent, SLS is just a bit more efficient at its job than other surfactants.  Most shampoos also contain what we call “secondary surfactants” which further reduce the chance of any irritation while increasing conditioning on hair.  Will some people have a reaction, that’s always a possibility as it is with any products, with or without sulfates- natural or “chemical”.  Also, your hair will not fall out from using SLS and there is no published data that proves SLS will fade your hair color more than any other surfactant.  If you want to preserve your hair color then I recommend buying shampoos that are formulated specifically for color protection.

As I have stated in the past, it’s your right to not want to use products with certain ingredients; it’s your right as the consumer to pick and choose what you want!  However there are many people that are eliminating ingredients only because of what they read somewhere assuming that the source of the information is credible.  I am not trying to “force” ingredients on you because I want to sell products.  I want all consumers to be comfortable with their ingredient choices, not because I said it was safe, but because you now have both sides to ponder and can make an informed decision based on facts.