the B. spot

For all of you who missed my tweets or have been out of the beauty loop over the past couple of days, last Friday Living Proof took home CEW’s Indie Beauty Award and proceeded to own the hair category snagging top honors for Prestige Hair Styling (Full Thickening Cream) and Prestige Hair Care (No Frizz Shampoo). Way to go guys!  Many have asked me about Living Proof and if they are worth of all the hype.

As you all know, I am not one to knock another chemist’s hustle:-)  No seriously, if they want to charge $24 for 8 oz of shampoo- that’s none of my business.  And to be perfectly honest, the only issue that I take with the brand is their hyperbolized claim that no other cosmetic supplier in the world has come up with technology even remotely close to theirs in 83 years.  Well maybe it wasn’t that exaggerated but you get the point.  As you can see, I tend to disagree with this train of thought (silicone technology has come a long way baby)!  The Living Proof team looked to the medical industry for exciting new materials (a practice that occurs more often than not in the cosmetics in particular cosmeceutical arena) and they came up with polyfluoroester or PFE.

Now I know what you’re thinking, don’t we use perfluoro something or others in oxygen products.  Great observation!  Why yes, we have been using perfluoroethers in skin care to get that cool foaming action and  “deliver” oxygen to the skin.  But there is a difference and they are correct when they said that they are the first to use POLYfluoroESTER (used to coat contact lenses) vs PERfluoroETHER in hair care.  And to make hair thicker they utilize technology created for genetic vaccines (used as a vehicle to transport modified DNA to it necessary destination) known as  Poly Beta Amino Ester-1.

To make an already  long story short, theoretically the claims made can be backed if you look at the properties of the ingredients.   Do these properties translate from theory to practical application; they should though I’m pretty sure that how much product used will be pivotal to each individual (my thick natural hair will probably take more product than someone with finer hair- as with any anti-frizz product).

Hey B spotters!

Once again this year I will be tweeting live the winners of the coveted CEW Beauty Award!

And the nominees are (drum roll….)

WARNING:  This list is extremely long!  Take periodic breaks to rest your eyes:)

BATH AND BODY: Body Treatment Mass
AVEENO® – Positively Ageless™ Firming Body Lotion
Johnson & Johnson Consumer Products Company – Baby Oil Gel with Shea & Cocoa Butter
LUBRIDERM® – Intense Skin Repair Ointment
Olay – Body Quench Advanced Healing Body Lotion
Vaseline® – Sheer Infusion™ with Stratys-3™

BATH AND BODY: Body Treatment Prestige
Clarins USA – High Definition Body Lift
Fresh – Brown Sugar Body Cream
Laura Mercier Cosmetics – Crème de Pistache Body Soufflé
MAC Cosmetics – Mineralize All-Over Lotion
Origins – Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins™ Night Health Bedtime Spray

BATH AND BODY: Bath/Shower Product Mass
Burt’s Bees® – Fabulously Fresh Peppermint & Rosemary Body Wash
Dove – Deep Moisture Nourishing Body Wash with NutriumMoisture™
Mark – Self Sanctuary Berry Cranberry Shower Wash
Olay – Body Wash Plus Tone Enriching Ribbons
Soap & Glory – Scrub, Actually

BATH AND BODY: Bath/Shower Product Prestige
Ahava North America – Mineral Botanic Velvet Cream Wash – Hibiscus & Fig
Body Conscience – 3 Minute Shower in a Bar Body Polish: Nourish
Fresh – Sugar Açaí Body Scrub
Kate Somerville Skin Care – ExfoliKate® Body Intensive Exfoliating Treatment
philosophy – Bubble Gum Blow Out High Foaming Shampoo, Shower Gel, and Bubble Bath

FACIAL SKINCARE: Acne Treatment
Avon Products, Inc. – Clearskin Professional Invisible Blemish Treatment
CLEAN & CLEAR® – Advantage® Mark Treatment
DDF – Acne Control Treatment
La Roche Posay – Effaclar AI Intensive Acne Spot Treatment
Proactiv® – Clear Purifying Mask

FACIAL SKINCARE: Anti-Aging Mass
Avon Products, Inc. – Anew Clinical Derma-Full X3 Facial Filling Serum
Garnier – Nutritioniste Ultra-Lift Pro Deep Wrinkle Roller
GoodSkin Labs – Sculptinex™ Instant ReSculpting Face Treatment with Tensine™ and Resveratrol
Olay – Professional Pro-X Deep Wrinkle Treatment
RoC® – Multi Correxion™ Skin Perfecting System

FACIAL SKINCARE: Anti-Aging Prestige
Aveda – Enbrightenment Brightening Intensive Massage Masque
Estée Lauder – Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex
Lancôme – Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate
Shiseido – White Lucent Brightening Serum for Neck & Décolletage
SK-II – Skin Signature 3D Redefining Mask

FACIAL SKINCARE: Cleanser & Scrub Mass
AVEENO® – Ultra-Calming Moisturizing Cream Cleanser
CLEAN & CLEAR® – Morning Burst In-Shower Facial
Neutrogena – Oil-Free Acne Wash Redness Soothing Facial Cleanser
VISINE® – Total Eye Soothing Wipes™
Yes To, Inc. – Cucumbers Natural Glow Facial Towelettes

FACIAL SKINCARE: Cleanser & Scrub Prestige
Aveda – Green Science Perfecting Cleanser
Kiehl’s Since 1851 – Rare Earth Deep Pore Daily Cleanser
philosophy – When Hope Is Not Enough Hydrating Cleansing Balm
Shiseido – Future Solution LX Extra Rich Cleansing Foam
Skyn ICELAND – Glacial Cleansing Cloths

FACIAL SKINCARE: Eye Treatment Mass
Avon Products, Inc. – Anew Clinical Crow’s Feet Corrector
Neutrogena – Instant Eye Reviver from Ageless Restoratives
Olay – Regenerist Anti-Aging Eye Roller
Vichy – LiftActiv Retinol HA Eyes

FACIAL SKINCARE: Eye Treatment Prestige
Estée Lauder – Time Zone Anti-Line/Wrinkle Eye Creme
Lancôme – Génifique Eye Youth Activating Eye Concentrate
Origins – GinZing™ Refreshing Eye Cream to Brighten and Depuff
Shiseido – Benefiance NutriPerfect Eye Serum
SkinCeuticals – AGE Eye Complex

FACIAL SKINCARE: Moisturizer Mass
AVEENO® – Ultra-Calming Daily Moisturizer SPF 30
Avon Products, Inc. – Anew Reversalist Night Renewal Cream
Garnier – Nutritioniste Skin Renew Awakening Face Massager
Grassroots Research Labs – Vitamin C Power Brightening Cream SPF 25 with Vitamins E and B5
Olay – Professional Pro-X Age Repair Lotion SPF 30

FACIAL SKINCARE: Moisturizer Prestige
Clinique – Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer SPF 20
Kiehl’s Since 1851 – Açaí Damage-Correcting Moisturizer
Lancôme – Absolue Precious Cells Advanced Regenerating and Reconstructing Cream SPF 15
MAC Cosmetics – Studio Moisture Tint SPF 15
Shiseido – Future Solution Total Regenerating Cream

HAIR: Hair Care Product Mass
AVEENO® – Nourish + Condition Leave-In Treatment
Garnier – Fructis Triple Nutrition 3-Minute Undo: Dryness Reversal Treatment
L’Oréal Paris – EverPure Sulfate-Free Color Care Moisture Shampoo
Pantene – Nature Fusion Smooth Vitality Shampoo
Zotos International – Diamond Shine Shine Boost Rinse-Out Glaze

HAIR: Hair Care Product Prestige
Aveda – Sun Care Protective Hair Veil
Bumble and Bumble – Thickening Serum
Frederic Fekkai – Salon Technician Color Care Anti-Fade Top Coat
Living Proof – No Frizz Shampoo
Ojon – Restorative Leave-in Treatments

HAIR: Hair Coloring Product Prestige
Beau Colour – Root Essentials
Clairol Professional – Premium Crème Demi Permanente
ColorMetrics – TouchBack by ColorMark
Kelly Van Gogh – Root Rehab
Oscar Blandi Haircare – Pronto Colore Root Touch-Up and Highlighting Pen

HAIR: Hair Styling Product Mass
Dove – Heat Defense Therapy Mist
Garnier – Fructis Style Volumizing Anti-Humidity Hairspray
John Frieda Collection – Frizz-Ease Heat Defeat Protective Styling Spray
Klorane – No Rinse Care with Papyrus Milk
TRESemmé – 24 Hour Body Finishing Spray

HAIR: Hair Styling Product Prestige
Bumble and Bumble – Bb.Gel
DevaCurl – MirrorCurls
Living Proof – Full Thickening Cream
Moroccanoil – Glimmer Shine Spray
Sebastian Professional – Microweb Fiber

MAKEUP: Eye Product Mass
CoverGirl – Smoky ShadowBlast
FLIRT! – Lash-a-delic™ Fast Defining Mascara
Maybelline New York – Lash Stiletto Ultimate Length Mascara
Neutrogena – Nourishing Eyeliner
Sonia Kashuk for Target® – Dramatically Defining Long Wear Gel Liner

MAKEUP: Eye Product Prestige
Clinique – High Impact Curling Mascara
Estée Lauder – Double Wear Stay-in-Place Eye Pencil
Lancôme – Ôscillation Powerbooster Vibrating. Amplifying. Primer
MAC Cosmetics – Mineralize Eye Shadow
YSL Beauté – Mascara Singulier – Exaggerated Lashes, Dramatic Styling

MAKEUP: Face Product Mass
Avon Products, Inc. – Anew Wrinkle Zone Line Smoothing Duo
CoverGirl – Simply Ageless Sculpting Blush
Maybelline New York – Dream Liquid Mousse Foundation
Neutrogena – Mineral Sheers Concealer Kit SPF 20
Sonia Kashuk for Target® – Super Sheer Liquid Tint

MAKEUP: Face Product Prestige
Bare Escentuals – BareMinerals Matte SPF 15 Infused with RareMinerals ActiveSoil™ Complex
Clinique – Redness Solutions Instant Relief Mineral Powder
Giorgio Armani Beauty – Lasting Silk UV Foundation SPF 20
MAC Cosmetics – Studio Sculpt SPF 15 Foundation
Origins – Multi-Grain™ Makeup SPF 14 Fortified with oats, vitamins & minerals

MAKEUP: Lip Product Mass
CoverGirl – Outlast Lipstain
Mark – Kissink Lip Tintmarker
Maybelline New York – Color Sensational Lipcolor
Neutrogena – MoistureShine Lipstick SPF 20
YOYO Lip Gloss, Inc – Minis

MAKEUP: Lip Product Prestige
Christian Dior – Dior Addict Lip Glow – Color Awakening Lip Balm SPF 10
Clinique – Vitamin C Lip Smoothie Antioxidant Lip Colour
Estée Lauder – Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lipstick
Guerlain – Rouge G de Guerlain
MAC Cosmetics – Cremesheen Glass

MEN’S GROOMING: Men’s Grooming
American Crew – Trichology Hair Recovery Patch
Avon Products, Inc. – Patrick Dempsey 2 Dual Action Face Wash
Gillette – Hydra-Scrub + Body Wash
Lab Series Skincare For Men – Active Hand Cream
NIVEA for Men – Active 3 Body Wash

SCENT: Men’s Scent
Bond No. 9 New York – Brooklyn Eau de Parfum
Coach Beauty – Coach for Men Fragrance Spray
Donna Karan Cosmetics – DKNYMen Eau de Toilette Spray
John Varvatos – Artisan
Tom Ford Beauty – Tom Ford Grey Vetiver

SCENT: Women’s Scent Mass
Avon Products, Inc. – In Bloom by Reese Witherspoon
Coty Beauty – Halle by Halle Berry eau de parfum
FLIRT! – Flowerific Perfume Spray
Mark – Sophistique Eau de Toilette Spray
P&G Prestige – Avril Lavigne Black Star

SCENT: Women’s Scent Prestige
Bond No. 9 New York – Astor Place Eau de Parfum
Chanel – Cristalle Eau Verte Eau de Toilette Concentrée
Coty Prestige – Lola Marc Jacobs
Gucci – Flora by Gucci
Michael Kors Beauty – Very Hollywood Michael Kors Eau de Parfum Spray

SUN: Sun Product Mass
Coppertone – Sensitive Skin Sunscreen Lotion SPF 50 Faces
Hawaiian Tropic® – Sheer Touch SPF 50 Crème Lotion
La Roche Posay – Anthelios 60 Ultra Light Sunscreen Fluid
Neutrogena – Sensitive Skin Sunblock Lotion SPF 60+ with PureScreen™
Soap & Glory – Glow Getter

SUN: Sun Product Prestige
Bare Escentuals – BareMinerals SPF 30 Natural Sunscreen
Chanel – UV Essentiel Protective UV Care – Anti-Pollution SPF 30+
Kate Somerville Skin Care – Somerville360°™ Tanning Towelettes
St. Tropez – Everyday Perfect Legs
VMV Hypoallergenics – Armada Post Procedure Barrier Cream 50+

Today has been some day B spot… I don’t know how many of you work full time and have full time families but it does get hectic.  And if you are the boss at work and then have to come home and be the boss (or co-boss:-) – well that’s really just adding another layer of responsibility that can be as daunting and overwhelming as it is rewarding.  Today is definitely one of those days when I want to lock myself in the bathroom and just exist for myself- not as a mother, wife, sister, daughter or a boss- just me slowly removing layers.

There are three things that I find very therapeutic and refreshing- praying, working out and exfoliation.  Each one of those things help to remove layers for healthier mind, body and skin- all of which are beneficial for my peace of mind.  So as I closed the door to my sanctuary (aka bathroom) and opened up my box of Exuviance Performance Peel AP25; anticipation began to set in as I looked forward to another exfoliation experience.  I was not disappointed!

I think that most of you who have been reading the B spot know that I am a hard core exfoliation seeker; I usually seek the sting (a bit weird, I know) but the day that I had already so it was actually refreshing to just sit still and enjoy the experience.

Exuviance Performance Peel AP25 is a 25% Alpha hydroxy Acid/Poly Hydroxy Acid blend containing glycolic  and mandelic acids (the AHAs) and gluconolactone (the PHA).  I’m sure that you all know how these peels work by now…the acids break down the binding compounds between dead cells allowing to shed quickly and make room for new, fresh, healthy skin.  Peels are a great tool for people (present company included) who are on a constant quest to control breakouts.  Dead skin cells that just kind of hang around can get caught with the wrong crowd (excess sebum) and help clog pores to cause breakouts.  So you can see a chemical peel can help out!  Peels are also great for evening out your skin tone- another constant quest of mine.

As a cosmetic chemist, I see a lot of products that make me shake my head in pure shame however, chemical peels are products that I stand by for the simple fact that they are very effective for helping to control acne to controlling signs of aging.

Hey B spotters!

For all of you who didn’t know, last week was the CEW (Cosmetic Executive Women’s) Product Demonstration.  It’s a show where those who entered their products into the Beauty Awards had the chance to show off their products and let CEW members try them first hand.  It’s a beauty lovers paradise!!!!!

Of course, the Product Demonstration is best known for its swag bag- I get the chills just thinking about it:) But I digress…  I thought that it would be cool to go through some of the categories and let you know which products are in the running for the coveted CEW Beauty Awards Winner seal.  We’ll talk about the point of difference between them and what makes them interesting (or if they’re interesting at all;-D).  Since I left off talking about acne products, let’s start with that category and over time we’ll work our way through- shall we get started?!?!

Amala Purifying Blemish Treatment

This organic approach to blemish control is not actually an “acne” treatment because it does not use an OTC drug approved by the FDA.  Instead it relies on couple of botanicals with antimicrobial activity (like a preservative) to kill acne causing bacteria, propionibacterium acne AKA p. acne.  The two powerhouse in this product is tea tree oil backed up by ginger and lemon.  Tea tree oil has been around since the beginning of time and has wonderful attributes like antimicrobial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties.  The downside is the strong medicinal fragrance that is pleasing to some and nauseating to others.  Ginger and lemon both have antiseptic or purifying properties.

Avon Clearskin Professional Invisible Blemish Treatment

Avon’s new approach to treating blemishes is to reduce the inflammation that makes the blemishes stand out (redness, swelling) by flattening the pimple with an invisible film while delivering salicylic acid and a zinc peptide complex.  How are they flattening out the pimple you ask?  They are using a film former that tightens as it dries; while it’s tightening the film is gently pulling the skin which “pushes” against the pimple making it appear flatter.

Burt’s Bees Natural Acne Solutions

BB relies on tea tree oil and salicylic acid to control acne.   Pore purging salicylic acid is clearing the path for tea tree oil to get into the pores and reduce the overflowing p. acne population.  BB also contains other soothing ingredients to offset the sometime drying effect of sal acid.  WARNING- this product has a good deal of tea tree oil and smells just like it!

Clean & Clear Advantage Mark Treatment

Combining the exfoliating power of glycolic acid and the deep cleaning of salicylic acid, Mark Treatment treats both acne the unsightly marks that come along with the territory.  Glycolic acid increases cell turnover to help get remove the scarred skin and replace it with healthier clear skin.  By removing the layer of dead skin cells, the salicylic acid has an easier time getting into the pores.

Dermalogica Clean Start- Hit The Spot

This is the first benzoyl peroxide treatment in the acne category, Clean start is packed with 5% bpo (chemist lingo for benzoyl peroxide)!  P. acne cannot live in an oxygenated environment (can’t survive when oxygen is present); bpo is an oxygen source thus kills p. acne.  With 5% bpo, they also included anti-inflammatories and moisturizers to prevent your skin from drying out!

Clearasil Pimple Blocker Pen

Geared toward a younger market, Clearasil has been the leader in the teen acne scene for years.  Not to be left out, they launched the Pimple Blocker Pen based on salicylic acid and unfortunately- not much else…

DDF Acne Control Treatment

DDF spared no expense with this acne fighting treatment thus the $42 price tag!  Powered by salicylic acid backed by an antimicrobial with moisturizing capabilities.  It also has interference pigments that are doing absolutely nothing at all for your acne but your skin instantly looks better.  Personally I see nothing wrong with a product that makes me look better while its treating my skin!

Dr. Brandt Vacuum Cleaner

Vacuum Cleaner is Dr Brandt’s answer to painful extractions.  Overtime, it gently exfoliates dead skin with glycolic acid and purges the pores of junk and gunk with salicylic acid.  It also contains ejitsu rose extract that tightens up the pores almost “squeezing” the blackhead out- gross but effective visual!

La Roche Posay Effaclar AI Intensive Acne Treatment

I always found the most effective treatments that I mixed for myself in lab contained both sal acid and bpo.  The problem with that combination is that it is not allowed by the FDA so although effective- its technically illegal.  So I was happy to see La Roche Posay working around the “system” and launch a bpo product with a “LHA” instead of a “BHA”- capryloyl salicylic acid as opposed to salicylic acid…smh…ok La Roche Rosay- whatever you say…

Philosophy On a Clear Day Retinol Clarifying Lotion

Another favorite ingredient of mine for overall skin health is retinol; combine it with salicylic acid and you definitely have a LEGAL winner.  Although On a Clear Day doesn’t contain sal acid (what a pity), retinol is pretty powerful on its own for a healthy glow and clear skin.  This would make a great accompaniment to your regular acne program.

Proactiv Clear Purifying Mask

This sulfur based treatment mask dries out existing blemishes while extracting all kinds of pore clogging, pimple causing gunk.  The only issue that I have with sulfur is the rotten egg odor- unappealing but it works!

Hey B. spot!

Most of you me by now and realize that I am not a product basher.  I state my opinions on issues but when it comes to ingredients, I’m not speaking from opinion but from factual data.  Now, if you like this Nectar of the Gods then great- it probably works really well and I’m not making any disputes on the efficacy.  HOWEVER, after checking out the web site I have to wonder- do companies really think that consumers are idiots and just because you name drop a few celebrity names you can put out completely ridiculous information about your ingredients!

I don’t know who did the ingredient research or who handles the marketing but this is a prime example of why you can’t believe everything that you read on a manufacturer’s web site.  Ask around and do your research otherwise you may end up believing and repeating this mess.

Okay, let’s start at the beginning…

Propylene Glycol – A mixture of propylene glycol esters of coconut fatty acids. Aids in removing unwanted “build – up” from hair.

No, absolutely not!  Propylene glycol is produced by proylene oxide or glycerol and there is not a fatty acid in sight.  It’s a great humectant (draws in water) and is used in moisturizers and emulsions to prevent the products from falling apart after freezing.

SD 39 - A mixture of fatty alcohols derived from coconut oil consisting predominantly of cetyl and stearyl alcohols. Used as emollients, thickeners and emulsion stabilizers.

SMH…no, this would be your traditional denatured (tweaked to make it undrinkable) ethanol better known as alcohol.  Again, there are no fatty acids present and it surely not used to stabilize or thicken emulsions.  What they are referring to is common ingredient called cetearyl alcohol – it’s a totally different ingredient.

Linalool – Anti-static and hair conditioning agent.

W-O-W!  Seriously?  You’re kidding me, right?  For real, for real? Yeah, um no, linalool is a fragrance additive and you see it just about everywhere.  A hair conditioning agent- not really- depending on which version is being used it can impart a woody, lavenderish note or something a bit more floral.

You guys know that I’m not petty but incorrect info like that just really bugs me.  Again, I’m not talking about if the product works or not, I haven’t seen the complete ingredient list to know but I do know people who have used and love the product.  I’m not saying not to buy the product; i just want to you to be careful when it comes to ingredients…